Systematization of the Knowledge of Relevant Signals in Evaluating the Surf Zone - Proficiency in Positioning in the Surf Zone Lineup and in Wave Catching

João Miguel Antunes Brogueira, César José Duarte Peixoto

2015

Abstract

Regarding the beach safety of surf zone users, this study aims to systematize the “Wave Knowledge” of the most efficient lifeguards, the surfing masters, by classifying the indicators relevant for recognizing spacial and temporal patterns and risk factors. This is evidenced by the proficiency in motor tasks essential both to the sport and rescuing in the surf zone: positioning in the lineup, catching waves/ returning to shore (when “Wave judgement” is needed). We start by reviewing the literature from Surf Sciences, followed by an analysis of manuals of Surfing as a sport. Then we researched the prospective procedures of experts in extreme surf conditions and observed behaviour of top surfers in competition, to put up a classification of the visual signs used (sea and swell, wind, tide, seabed configuration, currents, and details of breaking waves’ forms). Based on the acquired data, we built a Questionnaire to rank the “relative importance of the signals”, which surveyed 11 surf national champions/ coaches (male/female practitioners with over 15 years’ experience). Results show that experienced surfers evaluate all elements of the “waves-currents system”, although the location, type and intensity of maritime currents (except under conditions of small waves), and the swell characteristics (angle of arrival to coast, height, period) stand out as the most important. The importance of the signals varies according to the wave height and the wave break types. The respondents also attend configuration of seabed and coast profile in their evaluation. As for the surf quality, they consider the characteristics of the coastal wind and temporal characteristics of the tides. For the strength of the surf and the take-off point, the focus is on sections and wave face profiles (slope, thickness).

Paper Citation

in Harvard Style

Brogueira J. and Peixoto C. (2015). Systematization of the Knowledge of Relevant Signals in Evaluating the Surf Zone - Proficiency in Positioning in the Surf Zone Lineup and in Wave Catching . In Proceedings of the 3rd International Congress on Sport Sciences Research and Technology Support - Volume 1: icSPORTS, ISBN 978-989-758-159-5, pages 104-118. DOI: 10.5220/0005730301040118

in Bibtex Style

@conference{icsports15,
author={João Miguel Antunes Brogueira and César José Duarte Peixoto},
title={Systematization of the Knowledge of Relevant Signals in Evaluating the Surf Zone - Proficiency in Positioning in the Surf Zone Lineup and in Wave Catching},
booktitle={Proceedings of the 3rd International Congress on Sport Sciences Research and Technology Support - Volume 1: icSPORTS,},
year={2015},
pages={104-118},
publisher={SciTePress},
organization={INSTICC},
doi={10.5220/0005730301040118},
isbn={978-989-758-159-5},
}

in EndNote Style

TY - CONF
JO - Proceedings of the 3rd International Congress on Sport Sciences Research and Technology Support - Volume 1: icSPORTS,
TI - Systematization of the Knowledge of Relevant Signals in Evaluating the Surf Zone - Proficiency in Positioning in the Surf Zone Lineup and in Wave Catching
SN - 978-989-758-159-5
AU - Brogueira J.
AU - Peixoto C.
PY - 2015
SP - 104
EP - 118
DO - 10.5220/0005730301040118